From Rhine to Wine
The Alsace region, in France, has an interesting history, switching between French and German control numerous times. It is so close to the German border, and this has really shaped the people that we've met and the multiple languages that they speak. We were recommended the Alsace by some WS hosts after we'd talked about vague plans to visit the Black Forest - but they weren't fans! "It is so dark!" Whilst we were sure we'd have a great time visiting there, we were convinced that the French vineyards, bordering some lovely forest and hills, were worth a try.
Enjoying the shade in the forest
As it was Rhys' birthday, we booked an apartment for two nights and it felt like luxury fully unpacking somewhere, knowing we wouldn't cycle for a whole day! After two weeks on the bike, it almost felt weird not to cycle! In fact, we couldn't fully resist using our bikes on our rest day, but only for a little boulangerie run for fresh pain au chocolats in the morning! France is fantastic for food, and it was wonderful popping into patisseries for excellent treats to fill our panniers with. Whilst we understand French slightly better than German, we clearly didn't impress with our attempts at buying food - the sellers would switch to German after hearing our attempts at French - but we were at even more of a loss! We say this every time we visit France, but we really hope to work on our French when we get back! On our day-off, we enjoyed a relaxing walk (the irony of hitting our "step goal" for the first time in a long time on a rest day) and a swim at the outdoor pool in Wissembourg - a picture perfect town that we would definitely recommend!
Wissembourg looking lovely!
Feeling well-rested, we headed from Wissembourg to Strasbourg, and then onto Colmar. We'd left the EV15 Rhine route for this detour, and we picked up the "wine route", or EV5, that goes through various vineyards. We really enjoyed our short stint on EV5; We'd forgotten how good hills are for giving views, and that sensation of whizzing down them! On the flat you're always pedalling!
Loving the landscape of EV5
Rejoining the Rhine from Colmar, we followed this into Basel. We didn't get the best first impression of the city, but that's only because we came via a German Lidl, that was very busy! Apparently everyone goes there to avoid the Swiss prices! Our impression of Basel rapidly improved - it seems such a good size, has a great level of busy-ness and most excitingly, you can swim in the river! You look down and see people drifting past in the river below, and you catch little snippets of their conversation. We were really keen to join in but weren't quite sure of the logistics. Thankfully, our lovely WS hosts came to the rescue, lending us a drybag which doubles up as a floatation aid. In the morning we bundled up our shoes, towels and phones (eek) into the bag and descended into the river. What a way to see a city! From the river, floating in the current!
Strasbourg cathedral - (the tallest building still standing that was fully built in medieval times). It can be hard to process so many sights and experiences.
We're now thinking more about crossing the Alps and are leaning towards the Alpe Adria route as we've been recommended it a few times, and apparently it doesnt get too steep! This means we spend more time in Southern Germany going East, to Salzburg; but we shall we see if we change our minds about the crossing!
Sunset on the Rhine
1,576km, 19 days and five countries into our tour
Feeling well-rested, we headed from Wissembourg to Strasbourg, and then onto Colmar. We'd left the EV15 Rhine route for this detour, and we picked up the "wine route", or EV5, that goes through various vineyards. We really enjoyed our short stint on EV5; We'd forgotten how good hills are for giving views, and that sensation of whizzing down them! On the flat you're always pedalling!
Loving the landscape of EV5
Rejoining the Rhine from Colmar, we followed this into Basel. We didn't get the best first impression of the city, but that's only because we came via a German Lidl, that was very busy! Apparently everyone goes there to avoid the Swiss prices! Our impression of Basel rapidly improved - it seems such a good size, has a great level of busy-ness and most excitingly, you can swim in the river! You look down and see people drifting past in the river below, and you catch little snippets of their conversation. We were really keen to join in but weren't quite sure of the logistics. Thankfully, our lovely WS hosts came to the rescue, lending us a drybag which doubles up as a floatation aid. In the morning we bundled up our shoes, towels and phones (eek) into the bag and descended into the river. What a way to see a city! From the river, floating in the current!
What a way to take in the sights in the morning!
We've really loved our brief time in Switzerland so far, even if we haven't quite figure out the weird curved giveway lines they have! Leaving Basel, we did a shorter day of cycling, having only started at midday post-swim. I think it makes cycling so much harder, mentally, starting in the afternoon. It's great to know you've done more than half of the cycling when you're stopping for lunch! Feeling pleasantly tired, we finished at a pretty lovely camping spot on the German side of the Rhine, full of other cycle tourers. We bookended the day with another swim in the Rhine.
Camping with fellow cyclists
Cooling off at the end of the day
After nearly three weeks of cycling we can't really believe how quickly the time is going, but also, how many new things we've experienced. In our usual lives, whilst our days vary, they are usually similar enough. Staying at a new place each night, taking in the scenery as we cycle for up to 100km, and potentially meeting new people - there is so much for our heads to process! Normally we don't reflect on how we've spent the last two weeks, but when we do now, it's almost hard to remember what we've done every day! It's a nice problem to have; it can just feel a little surreal at times. I think we need to buy a notebook and jot down more thoughts as we go along.
After nearly three weeks of cycling we can't really believe how quickly the time is going, but also, how many new things we've experienced. In our usual lives, whilst our days vary, they are usually similar enough. Staying at a new place each night, taking in the scenery as we cycle for up to 100km, and potentially meeting new people - there is so much for our heads to process! Normally we don't reflect on how we've spent the last two weeks, but when we do now, it's almost hard to remember what we've done every day! It's a nice problem to have; it can just feel a little surreal at times. I think we need to buy a notebook and jot down more thoughts as we go along.
Strasbourg cathedral - (the tallest building still standing that was fully built in medieval times). It can be hard to process so many sights and experiences.
We're now thinking more about crossing the Alps and are leaning towards the Alpe Adria route as we've been recommended it a few times, and apparently it doesnt get too steep! This means we spend more time in Southern Germany going East, to Salzburg; but we shall we see if we change our minds about the crossing!
Great blog post Mary
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